My first week in Buenos Aires came and went without fanfare or recognition. It was a bitterly cold week that saw me battle an Antarctic air every morning, afternoon and night--a battle a never came close to winning because I came prepared for Spring and its later, warmer season. I brought my heavy coat only because I had room and was under the weight limit (I came in at 47.5lbs coat, tequila and all). Even so, I managed to get sick and am still recovering; today, Friday has been the warmest day thus far and my body welcomed the warmth with new-found energy and health.
I spent most of the first three days running around town on the Subte (subway) and colectivos (buses) following dead-end leads on places to let. My main aid was Craigslist but I found most of the apartment descriptions terribly misleading; I drowned my deceptions with warm cafe con leche and medialunas. Luckily I managed to find a place-- not exactly what I'd imagined but it will be fine for now; also: I was tired of disappointment. Finding a shared apartment also gave me free time to spend with my fellow hostelers, though it did remove a reason-- a point, really-- from my daily city walks. Instead of purpose I now walked around for the purpose of others, walking with them on errands very similar to ones I'd once been slave to. (Irony: I was free of personal obligation but willingly and happily enslaved myself to those of others. I suppose it is true: when a chore is done voluntarily it stops being a chore.)
But wait, there is a point to all this, a reason for all these words I've arranged into phrases and ultimately sentences (and hopefully, more importantly, emotions). Food! Yes! Between everything I was doing with whomever I was doing it with, food was always on my peripheral vision. Of course. I've managed to try most things uniquely Porteñan (Buenos Airean) with the following notable exceptions:
Panchos (hot dogs; funny thing: the Pancho Mejicano has: jalapeños, some other hot pepper, and 4 types of hot sauce! Nothing else! Excessive but I will eat it when I have someone to impress.)
Ravioles de ricotta
Higado (liver)
Chichulines (tripe)
Mondongo (stomach stew)
Morcipan (Morcilla+pan; a blood sausage on a french roll)
I'm certain there are others I've yet to hear of, see or smell but rest assured that if it's semi-edible I will consume it (and write about it)!
Now the more extensive and very, very delicious list of what I have tried:
Milanesas: breaded veal cutlet, pan fried and usu. served with papas fritas, though also mashed potatoes. My favorite thing ever and, if you know me, you won't be surprised to learn this is the first thing I ate upon arrival!)
Empanadas: Fist-size savory pies; can be meat, chicken, cheese and ham, veggies, etc. My favorite so far has been cheese and onion.
Choripan: Chorizo+pan; a mild chorizo sausage on a french roll.
Ñoquis: Gnoccis: delicious here like everything else, especially with a light tomato sauce topped with a mild sour cream and loads of Parmesan cheese.
Bife de Lomo/ Bife de Chorizo/Vacio: Not sure what cut of meat they're from because they basically put a huge piece of meat and cut bits of it. Regardless, all of the meat here is free-range grass-fed, natural blah blah blah and primarily veal. Before you cry and call PETA on me: the young ones are DELICIOUS. Coming from a former long-time (6+ years) Vegetarian this should mean something. I will only eat baby animals from now on.
Hamburguesa AKA Hambu: Eh, a hamburger. The Suprema comes with ham, an egg, french fries, lettuce, tomatoes and cheese. Lettuce and tomatoes you say?? Yes, they double the price. I'm from California and I need my veggies! Hambus are usually served as a pair, which can be surprising to the uninitiated (but I finished them like a good Porteño would!)
Matambre: Boiled eggs, sweet peppers, olives and other goodies wrapped in what looks like flank steak and served sliced, deli style.
Jamon Crudo: Cured ham, basically the national equivalent of jamon serrano or pruiscutto.
Tortilla: A Spanish omelette; potatoes, egg and various other goodies. Served like a slice of pie.
Tarta: Torte; quiche-like with less egg and a crusty cover. Also served like a slice of pie.
Pizza: Varies by method of consumption: By-the-slice tend to be thick-crust while delivery-style are just like in the USA. Meat on pizza is not the norm.
Dressings: Salsa Golf is mayonnaise and ketchup. Mayonnaise is the same. Ketchup is different. Salsa Golf is BOMB.
Vino: The national grape is Malbec because, if anything, it's the only place in the world where it grows to its potential. I know little about wine (and I've only had bottles in the ARS$10-15 range; read: cheap) but it is good, especially with breakfast but also good with lunch, dinner or a snack. I've had it served cold once but I suspect that will become more common once summer settles in.
Quilmes: The national beer. Not very good but then again I'm spoiled. Often comes in liter bottles to share.
Chili-Bomb: Hot pepper-infused Vodka dropped into an energy drink; I was craving something spicy [see note #4 below] and a cute Porteña and Brasilera recommended it and said I wasn't a man if I hadn't had it; well I'll be God-damed if I was going to let two South America floozies tell me I wasn't a man! I took it like water and while they were trying to get the burning out of their throats I told them I was Mexican and laughed! The shoe's on the other foot or something. I don't recommend it but I will buy you one if you come down here!
Notes on FOOD:
#1: The Parrillas, small hole-in-walls in poorer barrios are where you find good and cheap poor-people food, which is really the best there is. This is where Choripans, Morcipans, Vacipans are found. My favorite places so far and the one place where public drunkeness seems acceptable (well, until a woman shows up at which point the screaming drunks are warned to behave because there's a lady in the room. They stubbornly oblige and proceed--in a fruitless attempt-- to romance the woman regardless of age or attractiveness.)
#2: Delis offer a mixture of Italian and Spanish meat options and French cheeses. Not surprising given that everyone here is either of Spanish or Italian heritage and everyone looks up to the French, as they should, culinarily-speaking.
#3: The fruit and vegetable racket it run exclusively by Bolivians; if not for them I wonder if there'd even be any fruits and veggies here. I've hear rumors they control the supply of peppers in town so I am trying to befriend them.
#4: Nothing here is spicy and I'm having trouble locating peppers and/or sauces (see #3). If you'd like to send me either write and I'll send my address.
#5: I haven't yet explored ethnic foods here but surely I will get to them. Then again, what I thought was an inherent bodily need for Mexican, Vietnamese and Japanese foods has yet to materialize, and maybe never will. But I will fo' sho' hit up the Arab Shwarma shop this weekend and "borrow" any hot sauce they may have. Or maybe the Superpancho mejicano dealers are who I have to go through...
#6: Meat is generally as cheap as fruits; house wine is generally cheaper than soda or water. Adding lettuce and tomatoes to a ham and cheese sandwich, for example, will nearly double its price. House wines are always a peso or two cheaper than sodas or water.
#7: Veggie options abound. Pasta are always a delicious option; empanadas are always available without meat; hell even Mickey D's and BK offer soy burgers, something they don't even offer in Vegetarian-friendly California!
#8: There's an obvious and glaring lack of coverage concerning "sweets." Reason: I'm not a sweets kind of guy. But if they're your thing trust me: there are shops dedicated to confectionaries and everything looks absolutely gorgeous and is made fresh daily.
#9: Buenos Aires has a large Jewish population and is in many respects similar to NYC in that they received large waves of European immigrants during the same time periods and from similar places. But unlike NYC, there doesn't appear to be much of a Jewish culinary impact, and by "impact" I mean "Where are the freakin' Jewish delis because I'm dying for a Katz-like pastrami sandwich!!!!"
What I know is this: I've eaten consistently better here than anywhere else. The food here is by no means cheap, but a huge plate of gnocci and a glass of cheap wine makes me happier than a five, five dollar, Five Dollar Footlong. SL
and the blog war begins
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