The Air Up Here

The air up here is unlike any I've ever encountered and I know know the meaning of altitude sickness: Crap! My first stop in Bolivia was the old mining town of Potosi, altitude 4,200m (13,00ft). i arrived at 8am and felt a complete lack of energy almost immediately. I slept until about 1pm and once awake me entire body was comatose and I could not physically get myself out of bed.

It took me about 40 minutes to finally succeed and immediately headed to the kitchen to brew some coca tea. After two cups I felt good enough to take a shower. After a third cup I walked around town with a newly-made Austrian friend but after a few hours the terrible headache and lack of energy returned. Prescription: more coca tea!

Here in La Paz I've had better luck, due mostly to being at only 3,000m. Well, 3,000m where I'm staying; the city is built in a steep valley and the wealthier people live at the base of the valley where oxygen is more plentiful. The valley walls rise steeply from the narrow base and are densely-covered with mud-brick homes that cling to them like bark to a tree. There are portions of the sides that have given way and have left massive scars on this city. Were there homes there at a point in the past? How many more scars will be inflicted upon this city? Do I really care? I just want to breathe. SL